Reflections on Pilgrimage to Holy Britain (and Iceland) – Part 1

“Peregrine”

My little pilgrim, Peregrine, (did you know there were pilgrim action figures?) which my wife bought me in France last year, accompanied us on our journey to the holy places of Great Britain.  Here I must stop, even before I begin, to give a little of the backstory of this pilgrimage.

Last summer my wife had the opportunity to travel to France….a trip she had longed for since her days of high school French classes.  But she went with her brother, not me.  I pooh-poohed international travel: all that time on planes, the invasive security practices, long lines, combined with a nagging back problem.  I had absolutely no interest.  She and Mark had a once-in-a-lifetime, wonderful trip together, sibling bonding, all that good stuff.  She knew I would not need a souvenir.  Nevertheless, while in a shop on Mont Saint Michel, she found this little pilgrim figure and knew it was Just The Right Thing.  It was a little reminder of our wanderings in this pilgrim land of faith. And there he sat on my office bookshelf.

Months later we were dining with Fr. Nicholas and Kh. Becky Alford (St. Gregory the Great Orthodox Church, Silver Spring, Md.).  In addition to questions about Nancy’s trip to France, they mentioned a pilgrimage to Scotland and England that they wanted to take this summer/fall to travel in the footsteps of some of our beloved Western saints.  I found it an inviting idea, a trip I would love to take.  My wife reminded me that it involved all that time on planes, the invasive security practices, long lines, combined with a nagging back problem.  I was still game.  And so dear wife, right then and there, signed us on before I could change my mind!  (Were we invited or did we invite ourselves? – well no matter…Alfords were gracious either way) Back surgery in May for me made it all possible.  Four weeks of healing, six of rehab and back in the gym….

Back to the action:  We met Fr. Nicholas and Kh. Becky Alford at Glasgow airport, and picked up the far-larger-than-we-had-ordered vehicle (a Mercedes 8-seat van, which was a bit of a challenge to drive on some of the narrow roads/streets) but thank God, Fr. Nicholas did all the driving – surely a work of supererogation.  Indeed, parking became known as “beaching the whale.”

St. Mungo’s Cathedral (Glasgow):  we offered thanks for safe travel.  St. Mungo is the favorite son of this city.  He is St. Kentigern, but his mother (like many mothers before and after her) preferred this affectionate diminutive, meaning “dear one”. Although built in the 13th century honoring the 6th century bishop, it is now Prrrrresbyterian (that’s a Scottish burr I’m affecting here!), but they love to help you find St. Mungo’s crypt and learn all about him.  We ended the day at the Willow Tea Room created by designer Charles Rennie Mackintosh for tea and sandwiches and sweets.

St. Mungo’s, Glasgow
“No, Father, you won’t be driving…”

A drive through spectacular Highland landscapes brought us to Oban for the ferry to the Isle of Mull, with stops at the quaint village of Luss on Loch Lomand (we took the high road, thankfully) and the Church of St. Kessog – (which unfortunately was not open) and at the unusual St. Conan’s Kirk – a privately-built Norman revival/Romanesque church on Loch Awe…with a relic of Robert the Bruce!

St. Kessog’s Church, Luss
St. Conan’s Kirk, Loch of Awe

A highlight was our stay on the Isle of Mull at the Monastery of All Celtic Saints (Oran na Mara-“Song of the Sea”–its name when it was a bed and breakfast).  Mother Iosifia, Rasaphore Nimfodora and Novice Maria offered truly Christlike hospitality.  Prayed Compline with them on Tuesday evening and Matins Wednesday morning.  They sounded like angels.

Monastery of All Celtic Saints, Isle of Mull
Rasaphore Nimfodora, Mother Iosifia, Novice Maria

On to the Holy Island of Iona, the home of St. Columba, where we offered the Litany of the Saints & prayers for our families, our Hierarchs, clergy of our diocese, and parishioners in the St. Oran’s Chapel.  Met up with Fr. Seraphim Aldea and his tour group that evening back at the monastery for dinner and tea and conversation.  Bought several of the Monastery’s interesting style of icons of Celtic Saints – a kind of cross between Celtic and Coptic styles, as Fr. Seraphim is seeking to develop an indigenous style with his iconographer.

Iona Abbey & Church
Pilgrims on Iona (Fr. Nicholas & Fr. Alban)

Stirling Castle next day.  After a short drive from the castle, Mat’ka Helen and I hiked the hill and climbed the narrow winding stairway to the top of the William Wallace Memorial.  We ”braved” the cold 50 knot wind that about knocked us over, to behold the battlefield vista of his victory over “Longshanks” at Stirling Bridge (must watch “Braveheart” again….”Alba gu brath!”).  Overnighted in Stirling where we had an apartment and tried to wash clothes – the machines over there take forever!  But the showers were much better than I remember from previous trips to the UK…no more daily dribble. . .

Robert the Bruce at Stirling Castle
The Stirling Bridge battle site from Wallace Memorial

Melrose Abbey.  Here’s the thing about church ruins:  stark shadows, hauntingly quiet, and yet you can hear the prayers and the chanting from centuries before, like grasping at fragments of dreams.

Melrose Abbey

More than one person gave us approximate directions for the original Melrose monastery where St. Cuthbert first appears in the histories.  We decided to go on the hunt.  It took driving a few miles, walking down mucky dirt roads, crossing a pasture of inquisitive sheep, and stopping just short of a sty of pigs, who took issue with our presence.  Offered prayers and picked up stones to bring home.  There was a little grumbling from the distaff side about ruined stockings and sheep dung on the shoes.  And then it started raining. That night our hotel in Hexham was a bit luxurious for pilgrims, but a welcome respite.

Probable site of the original Melrose Monastery

Visited Hexham Abbey on Saturday which was built over St. Wilfrid’s 7th Century Crypt, only discovered in the 18th Century – very much like the one at Ripon Cathedral (a previous trip).  In the afternoon we headed on to Durham with stops at Corbridge Roman ruins of a military installation, and at Hadrian’s Wall to gather, of course, more stones.  Part Two next week…

St. Wilfrid’s Crypt, Hexham Abbey
Roman ruins at Corbridge
Portion of Hadrian’s Wall